Make a Basic Tunic
A draft set of instructions on how to make a t-shirt type tunic or underdress. Needs fixing :)
How to Make a T-Tunic/Underdress.
I have no idea how authentic this is, it was just my first tunic. I think that undertunics and underdresses are meant to be quite fitted, but overtunics can be looser. Here’s a good link for more complex tunics: http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/viktunic.html
_ALWAYS INCLUDE EXTRA FOR SEAMS AND HEMS WHEN YOU MEASURE ANY FABRIC_
Get one tshirt that fits you comfortably. Get linen. Though probably not very good linen, if this is your first try at a tunic.
For a tunic: measure twice the distance from your shoulders to your knees. this should allow for hems and pouching when you put a belt on. For an underdress: measure twice the distance from your shoulders to your ankles, which will include the same allowances as above. -- plus a bit extra for adding length to sleeves and making a facing for the neckline.
Fold the fabric in half longways with the WRONG SIDE facing out. Put the tshirt on your fabric with the top against the fold, and trace. Pin along the trace lines and, if you're happy with it, cut out.
You will have 2 tunic shapes joined along the shoulder line. make a line along the fold line between the two halves. Mark the very middle of the fold line between the two halves. This is the middle of your neckline. Stick a pin in it.
Get the template from sarah brown, it is for a keyhole neckline. Trace the template onto some of the extra fabric. Cut out. This is your facing. Put the template on the wrong side of the fabric with the pin marking the centre in the middle of the neckhole. Move the template so that the pin is closer to the back of the template than the front (so you won't get choked by the collar of your tunic). Trace the template onto the wrong side of the fabric and cut out the hole in the middle. *** unfortunately i have completely forgotten how to attach the facing to the neckline. Somehow it ends up on the wrong side (inside). Ask Sarah Brown.
There are several options for sleeves: 1) large overtunic. these have shorter wide sleeves - about elbow length. 2) undertunic. these have wrist length sleeves and become narrower at the wrist. 3) underdress. as per under tunic For a short-sleeved overtunic, you might not have to add extra fabric. If you do, cut from the extra fabric a rectangle as wide as the part you will attach the new sleeve to, and as long as the length you want to extend the sleeves by. Pin it, right sides together, to the end of the sleeve. Sew together with straight stitch, then zigzag the edges. Repeat for other arm.
To make undertunic and underdress sleeves, measure the width of the sleeve, measure the length you want to extend them by, and measure around your fist: this plus a bit extra is as big as you'll need the armhole of the sleeve to be. Cut a shape that at one end is as wide as the part of the sleeve you will be attaching to, and at the other is as wide as the circumference of your fist. Sew the widest part to the sleeve, with straight stitch and then zigzag. Repeat for other arm.
Pin from the wrist to the bottom of the skirt and try on your tunic: make sure you can get in/out OK. Sew edges together. Try it on again before zigzagging, just in case. Zigzag.
Try it on maybe with a belt before you hem it to see what length you should trim it to. Make a double hem, that is: Use an iron to press 2cm all around the bottom of your tunic, and pin. Sew with straight stitch. Fold over 2cm or so again so the stitching you’ve just done is on the inside, press flat, pin, and sew again. This stops it fraying. Do the same for sleeves.
Now you should have a tunic-shaped object. If not, my apologies ;)
General male costume notes